TIMES FOOD GUIDE

Your lemonade for the day "When life hands you lemons, make nimbu paani" reads the sms from my friend Arun Agarwal (of Bachelor Juice centre at Chowpatty.) His daily sms (for the past several years) has been helping me make nimbu paani and thanking God for making my life into a series of eclectic buddies and miracles punctuated by great meals and continuing education. Having done my masters in business management, law and journalism, I am now revelling not just in culinary education but also in all else that I learn at the table. Like artistic hairstyling and literary masterpieces today. So what if my waistline expands? So do my horizons. I am constantly learning.      Especially, from Siddharth Dhanvant Sanghvi my brat buddy whose novel, The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay was one of this year's biggest hits. Super-stylist Natasha Sara has styled him for several international shoots. With her magical scissors, the vivacious, slim Natasha not only transforms her clients' looks but also the way they feel about themselves. No wonder she calls her brand new vibrant Versova hair studio 'Trance by Nats'. Both are discerning foodies with a great sense of style. Together, we check out Juhu's latest Novotel's Mediterranean restaurant.  OLIO      As a continuing part of my learning curve, I learn that though 'Olio' means oil in Italian, it also denotes 'hodge podge' in English. Which one were they referring to here? I ate twice over here. And each time there was only one other table that is occupied. The service is attentive. While on our first visit, the soulless lobby and passage of Novotel was leaky, a fortnight later it looks much better. The glass walls of the large cheerful restaurant peel away to reveal a charming sea and pool side view. And the menu enlarges ambitiously to include everything from Tagine and Shish Taouk to Pizza and Pasta.      On my second unannounced meal here, I learn that the dapper Heinz Egli, (chef-turned general manager who has conceptualised the entire restaurant) insists on all being done with 'love and feelings' (the words chalked on the blackboard of 'Daily Specials here).      Love and feelings obviously infuse every detail. From the embroidered olive napkins, tomato print charger plates to the Mediterranean jazz. Yummy and well-made complimentary dips on the table (Harissa, Tahina, Pesto). The garlic laced Hummus is a delight and sends our expectations soaring. While the al dente Pasta Peperoncino with it's chilli bite is almost perfect, the Sheesh Taouk (though well presented on a skewer) could do with more flavour ("Chewy and sinewy" observes Siddharth). The Pizza with Gorgonzola disappoints as the Italian cheese doesn't even whisper through it. Even the Linguini Tartufo bianco, lacks the flavour of Truffle. Lackluster Tagine. Go for Loubeb Zeith (green beans,) and Chorizo for robust garlicky flavours. End with Chilli Chocolate Mousse (if you like to combine those two flavours, I do) skip Laylas cake (a sticky pudding in a bowl.)      Finally, the wine list is sketchy though it does take in it's sweep some very good ones. (Meal per head Rs 1,500 to 3,000). Not enough veggie dishes, too many cuisines from the Mediterranean and not enough excellence in raw ingredients. I ask for olive oil on my table and a musty bottle of mediocre oil is served up.      For all its glimmer and good intentions, Olio falters somewhat, but it makes a good start. As Siddharth observes 'I was born with a bad hair day and I need Natasha's magic fingers to sort me out'. With a little bit of similar trimming and shaping, the bonny new arrival Olio has the similar makings of success of our literary rockstar.  OLIO  Novotel, Balaraj Sahni Marg, Juhu Beach. Ph 66934444. 12.30 to 3pm, 7-30 to 11.30pm RATING FOOD 3 SERVICE 3.5 DÉCOR 3.5